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 Post subject: Engine Specs Calculators
Unread postPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:47 am 
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Thanks to Aircoolded.net we can use this Engine Capacity and Compression Calculator to determine compression ratio. If you find any other "calculator" or some such regarding engine building, feel free to post it in this thread. :cool:

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Unread postPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:01 am 
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Just found this post in thedrambadotcom's forum and figured here would be a great place to save it! Though not a "pro-builder" just like me, Riff Raff has built a few reliable ones in "bus specific" form. :cool:

Riff Raff wrote:
I wasn't going to post specifics here as there is the Engines and Performance forum, but ill give a brief rundown of what works for me.

I build my engines to be as efficient as they can be. The more efficient they are, the more energy is used for moving the bus and less goes into wasted heat. Letting them breathe is a big part of that.

Dual relief mag case - lighter (and cheaper) than aluminum. Aluminum is more robust, but mag is plenty strong enough for my needs. I have also had issues with the aluminum cases misting out the pulley end. I tap the case for full flow (Oil filter is a good thing I think) and open up the #4 bearing drain line a bit, enlarge the drain hole that connects the cam gallery and the crank gallery and port the case a bit. This only takes an hour or so, so while I’m in there with the Dremel, I get all that done.

78 mm counterbalanced Chinese crank, Chev journals. Final polish and balance and it is good to go.

AA 90.5mm P&C’s – these have thick walls for a good heat sink. I balance the pistons and usually have to ream the wrist pins just a touch to get clearances- again, not to turn 7K RPM, but for efficiency.

I Beam rods, ARP bolts, balanced – plenty good enough for 110 HP engine. The Chev journals and ARP bolts make for less clearancing on the case too.

CB 044 heads, ported for efficiency.

Mild cam, something with fairly short duration. Lumpier cams are good if you’re turning high RPM, but I do most of my driving between 1500 and 4000 RPM, so that’s where I want my power band. Straight cut gear – more efficient than angle or helical cut gears. I don't mind the whine

Port matched manifolds, 40mm Dells with Berg linkage. The most efficient fuel delivery is fuel injection of course, but short of that, 1 cylinder per venturi is more efficient than multiple cylinders per venturi.

Bosch 019 distributor. The 019 has no retard on #3 and ramps up a little slower than the 010, but still gets ~25° total advance. Timed to ~29° total and idle falls where it may.

Balanced 8 dowel flywheel and balanced 1500 pound clutch, equalizer pulley.

26mm oil pump. I feel it is important to keep the oil pump small as I don’t run external oil cooler. 26mm will feed a 2 litre just fine, but will not cause bypass of the stock oil cooler like larger pumps will.

Vintage Speed sport muffler with 1 ½” heater boxes, I also run a thermostat, doghouse shroud with \Hoover bit.
I aim for about 8.5:1 static CR so I can run 87 RON fuel. Fortunately, we have no ethanol content reg’s here.

I want to stress that I am no pro engine builder. I have built 4 or so in my life, but they are still running and suit my needs.

There is a tremendous wealth of information in the engines forum. The one caveat is that most of the guys who post in there are Beetle racer guys and the requirements for a large displacement beetle racer engine are somewhat different from a large displacement bus cruiser engine.

Some of the guys that I feel are worth paying attention to when it comes to engine building are vwracerdave, darth webber, john at air cooled.net and mightymouse, not in any particular order.
I strongly counsel anyone who is building an engine for their bus to invest a few hours reading the engines forum before forking out multiple thousands of $$ on your engine.

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Unread postPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:53 am 
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To figure out which set of bearings to buy, use this link: http://www.evwparts.com/volkswagen/ACEngineBearing.html

That's where I got the set for my stroker way back when. Simply measure the OD (outside diameter) of the crank journals and the ID (inside diameter) of the bolted together case. Then go to the link and match the set you need. Both crank & case being NEW, you only need a "standard/standard" set. If the case and/or the crank have been machined, then you'll need to get "oversized/undersized" bearings. This also applies to the connecting rod bearings so you need to measure all journals on the crank! :cool:

Note: More often than not, the main bearing journal on the case (the one closest to the flywheel) is also machined for "thickness". The term use for this particular spot is "thrust" and you'll see it specified as "standard" or "undersized", so you do need to measure that thickness too!!! ;-)


Reference: Standard crankshaft 55.00mm (2.165") Standard case 65.00mm (2.559") Standard thrust journal 22.00mm (.866")

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