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 Post subject: Accelerator pedal issues
Unread postPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 5:44 am 
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At the Featherly campout this past weekend I was discussing with Ken the way an accelerator pedal should work and feel. It should all work very smoothly and it should return to its "rest" position without any binding whatsoever and rather quickly too. If you have to use "extra" and/or heavy return springs, there is a binding problem that must be addressed and taken care of. It should all work so easy that the single spring on the carburator will be enough to return it to the "rest" position. Not to mention the dangerous condition that a binding accelerator pedal can cause, when you have to heavy a spring in order to return it to rest, it takes a "heavier" effort on your foot to get the bus going. This condition in turn makes you "feel" like the engine has no power since it takes so much effort. However, once you fix the binding problem and it works more "loosely", you'll be amazed at the power "gain"!!! It's all in your head, but that is the way it should all work. :cool:

There's a very good thread in thedrambadotcom's forum showing some pictures of the correct way to assemble the pedal linkage up front at this Link. :smile:


Also, the whole mechanism should work in a manner that when the pedal is all the way down to the floor, the carburator throttle should be open all the way to its stop point. When we looked at Ken's set up, the pedal to the floor had the throttle open only half way. Of course this condition gave him a "feeling" of having a powerless engine. I'm sure once he corrects that issue the change will be extremely noticeable. Matter'O'factly, every single time I drop and re-install the engine I always make sure that the pedal motion opens the carbs fully before taking it for a spin. I simply place a brick or some such item on the pedal then go back and verify the throttle position. If not open all the way, I'll adjust it until it does. :razz:

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Unread postPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 8:52 am 
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Thanks, I'll try and take a look at my setup this weekend. :cool:

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Unread postPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:22 am 
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Just spotted this kool setup in thedrambadotcom's photo gallery:

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I'll have to try something like it, since the old worn out linkage has so much play on every moving part. :-k

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Unread postPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:27 pm 
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pyrOman wrote:
Just spotted this kool setup in thedrambadotcom's photo gallery:

Image
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I'll have to try something like it, since the old worn out linkage has so much play on every moving part. :-k


Is that for someone with a clubbed foot? Hideous looking, done in the best style of '80s hacks :roll:


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Unread postPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:19 pm 
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I have my own idea on what I really want to do. It's just that seeing this^^^ might help in a way. The basic original design is, well, too basic and so worn out that sometimes even with new bushings they still have a lot of play. Plus my idea would be able to "pull" back on the cable with the pedal if it gets stuck open or such. But as far as that pedal is concerned, I don't care much for it either! :neutral:

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Unread postPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:36 pm 
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pyrOman wrote:
I have my own idea on what I really want to do. It's just that seeing this^^^ might help in a way. The basic original design is, well, too basic and so worn out that sometimes even with new bushings they still have a lot of play. Plus my idea would be able to "pull" back on the cable with the pedal if it gets stuck open or such. But as far as that pedal is concerned, I don't care much for it either! :neutral:


Agreed, the stock mechanism below the floor is crap. curious to see what you come up with.


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Unread postPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:03 am 
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My "idea", which I have yet to put on paper even, is some sort of rack & pinion type deal. Try to picture this: the rod from the pedal through the floor would be the "rack", which then turn a "wheel", which would pull the cable. It'd also be fully adjustable so as to make sure that you'll get actual full throttle with the pedal to the floor. The "range" should also be such so that it is easyer on the foot to control (pedal ratio to that of the throttle). An example of too close a "ratio" is the setup on the Plump Truck: a little over an inch and a half travel on the pedal makes for full throttle. This makes it kinda hard on the foot to keep a half decent speed. Can you "see" this? :-k

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Unread postPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 4:47 pm 
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sometimes I think my SC has cruse control, when I let off the pedal it keeps going...guess that is not to good... :-k

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Unread postPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 1:04 am 
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pyrOman wrote:
Just spotted this kool setup in thedrambadotcom's photo gallery:

Image
Image

I'll have to try something like it, since the old worn out linkage has so much play on every moving part. :-k

$10 at wolfsburg west and your new rebuild kit would not be "old worn out linkage"... just sayin'

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Unread postPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:22 am 
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Slayer wrote:
sometimes I think my SC has cruse control, when I let off the pedal it keeps going...guess that is not to good... :-k



yah think?

What does everyone use or suggest to use to lube up the cable? I am talking about what to put in the tube that runs from the front to the rear? I believe mine is starting to not allow the carb to go back to idle. I can push it back to idle and it is not stuck but sometimes it sits at 2k RPM when I come to a light.

That setup looks like too much work and would go with Bill's suggestion first.

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Unread postPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:40 am 
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der58SC wrote:
What does everyone use or suggest to use to lube up the cable? I am talking about what to put in the tube that runs from the front to the rear?


I don't know about "Everyone", but this product works wonders. I've been using it for 15+ years with out any complaints.


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http://www.fluid-film.com/
Then what I have done in the past was take a small plastic cap Image slit it down one side, so it can be installed without removing the cable and drill a hole in it for the cable to easily * move through and plug the ends of the tube to keep out dirt and mositure.

* This is a key point!

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Unread postPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:00 pm 
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First thing to do is verify that you are using a bowden tube for the accelerator cable between the body and the engine. If not, then it is very likely that the cable has been rubbing against the transaxle and cut a groove into it, thus binding itself. :neutral:

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Unread postPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 5:16 pm 
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pyrOman wrote:
First thing to do is verify that you are using a bowden tube for the accelerator cable between the body and the engine. If not, then it is very likely that the cable has been rubbing against the transaxle and cut a groove into it, thus binding itself. :neutral:



Thx I'll check it out!

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Unread postPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 8:24 am 
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Slayer wrote:
pyrOman wrote:
First thing to do is verify that you are using a bowden tube for the accelerator cable between the body and the engine. If not, then it is very likely that the cable has been rubbing against the transaxle and cut a groove into it, thus binding itself. :neutral:



Thx I'll check it out!

i could be wrong again,but i believe 1961 was 1st year for the throttle cable bowden tube. i bought a new one from ronnie splitpile and davidm installed it on kermit after cutting about 1" off total length. if missing the original rubber booties water could get into tube. save old clutch cable to roto root the junk out of tubes in/on your bus. \:D/

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Unread postPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 6:01 am 
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We were talking about pedal issues at the last meeting with Rob. Can't find the pictures now but I have posted them before on how to "fix" the cable rubbing against the transaxle issue. Anyway, here's a link to a similar issue in thedrambadotcom's forum:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 54#7146954

Hope this helps! :cool:

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Unread postPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 11:31 am 
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Thanks Ivan, I will be giving this a try.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:37 pm 
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So I'm finally getting around to resolving my accelerator pedal issues so I don't have to rely on extra spring power on the carburetor. I messed with things a bit last night and now I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone around here has already been through and solved.

1. My accelerator cable doesn't move freely through the long tube that goes from the front of the bus to the back. I searched this out on the samba last night and most posts point towards years of gunk and build up in the tube. The recommendation is to spray break cleaner into the tube an then try and blow it out with air. Has anyone had any luck doing this.

2. I bought a bowden tube from Veeparts over the weekend to stop the accelerator cable from cutting a groove into my transmission case. I tried installing it last night and it appears to be a bit too long. Some of the post on the samba say you may have to pull the medal end off the tube and cut it down to size. Am I correct in thinking that the bowden tube should make as straight a connection as possible.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:59 pm 
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miranda_65 wrote:
So I'm finally getting around to resolving my accelerator pedal issues so I don't have to rely on extra spring power on the carburetor. I messed with things a bit last night and now I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone around here has already been through and solved.

1. My accelerator cable doesn't move freely through the long tube that goes from the front of the bus to the back. I searched this out on the samba last night and most posts point towards years of gunk and build up in the tube. The recommendation is to spray break cleaner into the tube an then try and blow it out with air. Has anyone had any luck doing this.

2. I bought a bowden tube from Veeparts over the weekend to stop the accelerator cable from cutting a groove into my transmission case. I tried installing it last night and it appears to be a bit too long. Some of the post on the samba say you may have to pull the medal end off the tube and cut it down to size. Am I correct in thinking that the bowden tube should make as straight a connection as possible.



#1, if there is no binding in the cable there could be crud in the tube
#2, the bowden tube should NOT be straight, it should have a bow, it is a bit sung to get in.

see this pic:

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/56Sla ... 6.jpg.html
.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 2:51 pm 
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Bowden tube is only for clutch cable and is bent.
Image

You need something else for accelerator cable and yes, it should be a straight as possible. Look in picture above clutch cable.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 3:59 pm 
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For some reason I thought he was referring to the clutch cable bowden tube!!! which is bent.
I didn't even know the accelerator cable had a bowden tube!!

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