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Buy new German front wheel cylinders or work the old ones?
Poll ended at Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:42 pm
Buy new ones 63%  63%  [ 5 ]
Keep working the old ones 38%  38%  [ 3 ]
Total votes : 8
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 Post subject: Wheel Cylinders
Unread postPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:42 pm 
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Lurking
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Well I wire wheeled the front cylinders, but there is no way I'm getting the pistons to move, not to mention the fact that bleeder valves are stuck too.....

Should I bite the bullet and buy four new cylinders, or keep fighting with these, ~$70 each, times four, with tax looking like $300 before the SV2s discount....hmmmmmm....

Maybe heat will work?

Anyone want to give some advice?

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Unread postPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 4:49 am 
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I say buy new ones since you can't move the bleeder valve. If you can't move that, then you can't remove the air in the lines.

Also to feel safer, I would trust new ones since they are less likely to leak fluid. Trust me when I say that brake fluid and brake shoes don't mix unless you like the instant locked up brakes feeling. :shock:


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Unread postPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 3:05 pm 
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I voted to rebuild, if possible. I just did this recently. I just take the metal parts to a wire wheel to make them look pretty on the outside, hone the inside and snap in the new rubber bits. Better than new. I've had good luck with new cylinders when they needed to be replaced. I've also heard complaints of crappy quality new cylinders though.


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Unread postPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 3:24 pm 
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Check the newsletter from a few months back, I rebuilt my old German ones, better than NEW Brazilian. If you can afford the NEW German, go that route.

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Unread postPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:17 pm 
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I could not even find "other than German" for the front cylinders.....I will break down and buy new German ones, if I can not get the old ones apart.

David,

How hard was it to get the pistons out of the case/body of the cylinders?

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:11 am 
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i usually take a shop rag-remove the bleeding screw with 6 point socket,put my air nozzle in bleed hole and squeeze the trigger and the piston will usually come out of bore. then i clean everything up-rehone,and install a new wheel cylinder kit if there are no pits in the bore. but i have a real compressor.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 6:39 am 
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bill may wrote:
i usually take a shop rag-remove the bleeding screw with 6 point socket,put my air nozzle in bleed hole and squeeze the trigger and the piston will usually come out of bore. then i clean everything up-rehone,and install a new wheel cylinder kit if there are no pits in the bore. but i have a real compressor.


I have compressor envy.... ;-)

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66 Custom Kombi -- GONE TO IRELAND
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Unread postPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 6:58 am 
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Turbo_g wrote:
I could not even find "other than German" for the front cylinders.....I will break down and buy new German ones, if I can not get the old ones apart.

David,

How hard was it to get the pistons out of the case/body of the cylinders?


Once the bleeder valve comes off, it should relieve the pressure enough to take the piston out.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 7:09 am 
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iveedubbin wrote:
Turbo_g wrote:
I could not even find "other than German" for the front cylinders.....I will break down and buy new German ones, if I can not get the old ones apart.

David,

How hard was it to get the pistons out of the case/body of the cylinders?


Once the bleeder valve comes off, it should relieve the pressure enough to take the piston out.


sometimes it is stuck and won't come after bleeder screw is removed and that is when i force it out with air. if the owner had changed fluid every 2 years then it usually is not pitted.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 7:20 am 
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bill may wrote:
if the owner had changed fluid every 2 years then it usually is not pitted.


What could possibly give you the wrong idea that this specimen had seen ANY maintenance within the last 10 to 20 years? :???:

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Unread postPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:53 am 
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pyrOman wrote:
bill may wrote:
if the owner had changed fluid every 2 years then it usually is not pitted.


What could possibly give you the wrong idea that this specimen had seen ANY maintenance within the last 10 to 20 years? :???:

Image


Yeah, I'm thinking no maintenance since the 80's, which is when the guy bought the land this bus was sitting on, he said it was on the land when he bought it (1984) and when I picked it up in 2003 it had never been moved. My guess is that the bus blew a rear wheel cylinder (passengers side) and got parked, then it looks like someone lived out of it for a while, painted it with HOUSE PAINT, and then abandoned it. The area probably flooded once or twice, by virtue of the silt in the floor and coated on the entire bottom of the bus.

Suffice it to say that the last five years have been the easiest it has seen in 40 or so.....

Now, back to work so I can afford all the necessary bits for The Hatch.

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63 Sub Hatch Westy -- THE HATCH
66 Custom Kombi -- GONE TO IRELAND
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Unread postPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:13 pm 
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Okay, so I worked on the wheel cylinders again tonight, got one of the bleeder valves out, the other will not budge. Even with the bleeder valve out, with PB Blaster, heat, pounding, vice grips, screwdrivers, pounding, air compressor, NOTHING WORKED.

I'm at the end of my rope, I'll be buying new cylinders this week.

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66 Westy SO42 -- Tin Top
63 Sub Hatch Westy -- THE HATCH
66 Custom Kombi -- GONE TO IRELAND
SV2s #425
"Craig from LA"
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"Three out of four voices in my head say 'Go for it'."


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